This hooks into the of the MA solenoid nipples. (the big circle at the back of the carb) on the lower left side. The carb, I find it way easier to remove the engine than to try and work on it in place. With practice the engine can be removed in less than 15 minutes.
Want to know how to hook up all of those Riva 180 carb hoses? Carburetor hose routing diagram Want to remove your engine? See the above link ( Starting problems with the Riva 180)įor more information and diagrams. Cracks in the plastic BCV fittings or cracks in the many vacuum lines.Straight through part of the "T" connector has a hose that connects to the SA solenoid. This jet is in the 90 degreeĪngle of the "T" connector, with a short hose attached to it that is vented to the atmosphere. Clogged starting air jet 2 (called SAJ 2 in the service manual).There is a hose that goes from this jet to an outlet at the very bottom of the carb. Clogged starting air jet 1 (called SAJ 1 in the service manual).If this is the case, it's time for a ring & valve job. Low engine compression (below 125 psi).The spark can gradually get weaker as the ignitor ages, or it
Cracked vacuum lines going to/coming from the carb and solenoids.Width X height, plus the right orientation of the + / - terminals and the drain tube). I'm still looking for a 12 amp battery with the correct configuration (length X You also won't be able to use the stock battery tie-down strap, but don't worry there is no way It's a little tall, but you should be able to get the seat to close if you remove the foam under the You can also replace the stock 10 amp battery with a 12 amp or even a 14 amp (YB14L-B2) battery. Low battery - replace with a good quality battery with plenty of cold cranking amps (CCA).You can clean this jet using a thin pair of needle nose pliersĪnd a #72 drill bit, or the appropriate size of wire (.025"). Problems I've seen (in order of frequency) are: Have to work together properly to get the scooter to hot and cold start.
As you can imagine, it’s quite a job to remove theĬarb for cleaning, and then to try and reinstall it properly. Sensor, and a black box control unit for the solenoids. Something called a bi-metal control valve(BCV), a mixture control valve, a thermo Most of the Hondas have started fine, but most of the Yamahas (especially the 180) have hadĪside from the usual setup (carb, coil, etc), the Riva 180 has two solenoids, It is to say that I’ve had about 11 Honda Elite scooters and 9 or 10 Riva 180 and 200 scooters. Nowadays after more than 15 years, it can have problems. Maybe this system worked ok when the scooter was new but It has a very complexĬarburetor/starting system. Scooter is famous (or infamous) for the "starting problem". Here, I’m speaking mostly of the Riva 180, manufactured from 1983 - 1985. Yamaha scooters are generally quite reliable, but they have their own personalities. This page? The general maintenance page contains step by step procedures and solutions to general Problems particular to Yamaha scooters Maintenance and tuneup how to - Can't find an answer on Also, new Service ManualsĪre generally available from.
More easily available from your local Honda dealer than from Yamaha. Maintenance, due to the water cooling and need for valve adjustments. Starting problems than the bigger Yamahas. The Hondas seem to hold up better than the Yamahas and they definitely have fewer I'm not looking to get into a religious war here :>), but in general,
Honda scooters are generally quite reliable, but they have their own
You can still get quite a few manuals direct from Yamaha! The Owner's Manuals are $30 and the Service Manuals are $60.
Owner's Manual/Service Manual part numbers LB50P Chappy YW50A Zuma CV80 Riva LB80 Chappy XC125 Riva 125 XC180 Riva 180 XC200 Riva 200
QT50 Yamahopper/MJ50J Towny/LC50 Champ CA50 Riva CV50 Riva CW50 Zuma SH50 Razz CG50 / CE50 Jog I got these from the factory service manuals This info is far from complete.I'm having a hard time finding it Brochures Check out these scans of the original Yamaha sales brochures